Back in Kudat

Kudat Marina, Sabah, Malaysia

After deciding that we want to be in Canada this summer, we have postponed our trip to the Kimberley in NT, Australia for now and will head for Thailand via northern Borneo instead. We are currently back in Marina Jetty Kudat, happy to be in familiar territory again. We are taking some time to do boat projects and making some eco-tourism plans where we can travel inland while the boat is in a safe place.

Downwind sailing on the way to Kudat along the N. Suluwesi coast

The diving at Bunaken Island was the highlight of our Indonesia trip, but we also tried some “muck diving” in Lembeh Strait that was quite interesting. Before we left Liang Beach, Bunaken, we beached the cat so Steve could do some prop shaft p-bracket and cutlass bearing adjustments. We then headed on to Bitung Harbor in Lembeh Strait, around the corner from the tip of Suluwesi. 

 

Happy hour with Froggie's managers Abel and Lola

Sunset at Bunaken Island

Catamarans can be beached with a few sand bags underneath

Fixing cutlass bearing with lots of help

After checking in to Bitung, we moved to an anchorage in front of Black Sand Dive Resort and stayed a few days to learn about muck diving. The shores and seafloor in the area are indeed fine black sand. But living right on top, either out in the open or on the rare coral or anemone patch is the most interesting assemblage of unusual critters, many being well camouflaged. We tried diving on our own, but saw more when we went with dive guides. On one dive we saw a crocodile eel buried in the sand with his head just poking out. When the guide lightly tapped behind him, the 6 foot long eel swam out and then burrowed tail first at a safe distance away from us.

juvenile barramundi

crocodile eel in in sand

crocodile eel swimming away from us

golden seahorse

zebra lionfish

moray eel with cleaner wrasse

pufferfish

Seahorse attached to twig debris on otherwise barren seafloor

stonefish

cuttlefish (cephalopod)

cuttlefish next to anemone patch

flying gunnard

Japanese bigeye

leaf fish

anemone and clown fish

under anemone community

 

We also took a day trip inland to Tamcoco National Park in Batuputih, Suluwesi, where we took a twilight walk to see the local tarsier but also saw neat tropical birds (hornbills & kingfishers) and a troop of macaques moving through the jungle. I (Pat) remembered reading in the Lonely Planet guidebook that you should wear long pants with socks tucked over as well as copious amounts of insect repellent due the midges (no-see-ums) that are there. Unfortunately, I didn’t remember until we arrived, in shorts. We had on insect repellent and all was fine until we got back to the car and walked through a field of them, stinging away. We had red bumps on our ankles and feet for weeks afterward.

macaque monkey

macaque male

our guide said we were very lucky to see this rare owl

tarsier

Our first anchorage departing Lembeh was Blue Bay, Banggi Island, which has a dive resort ashore. We met two other cruising sailboats there and had happy hour together. You meet very few other cruisers in NE Indonesia. We traded information, including anchorage spots on northern Suluwesi and regulations for Raja Ampat boating. We learned that when diving in strong currents without a boatman you can “just” tie your dingy painter around you and tow the dinghy along.  One of the other couples had just finished 20 years of cruising and were returning to Australia when they lost their boat on the reef at Tambisan Island. They had been in touch with us via another cruiser, and we were able to retrieve a couple more items for them when we passed by the wreckage a few weeks before.

 

Dive resort

We traveled via day hops along the northern coast of Suluwesi, anchoring each night. The local villagers, mostly fishermen, were friendly and curious. We saw traditional fishing ranging from men in dugouts with hand nets to mother ship trimarans loaded with smaller boats that spread out and fish all day once they are offshore. We also saw a seiner that hand pulled in the large net. 

hand seining in a big catch

traditional fishing in dugout canoe

Mother ship goes offshore where they fish from the small boats

When anchored in Teluk Asaan, Belonlioh village, there were groves of clove tree ashore. The locals dried the cloves on mats in their front yards and the whole village smelled wonderful. We walked around the narrow streets and passed out snacks to the kids. Steve had purchased a case of snack packs with local flavors like cheese puffs, prawn chips, and chicken crackers to give away. 

Log sideways across both bows, one end of log seen here 

We checked out of Indonesia in Tarakan, an oil port off the Kalimantan (Borneo) coast. It took 4 hours to reach the anchorage, sailing through a channel between islands and shallow waters. We anchored just past the town in a narrow passage that had strong currents that reversed with the tides. In the morning we found a 60 ft log stretching across both bows held in tight by the river-like current. We waited until the current reversed and pulled the log off with ropes from the dingy. Luckily, our anchor held both us and the log.

 

Our bow log floating away after freeing it st slack tide

On the way from Tarakan to Tawau, we passed a line of fish trap structures that they light up at night to attract and net the fish. The guys take small boats out and spend the night on the structure. There were hundreds of these rickety structures, miles offshore, but in less than 50 feet of water.

 

What is that on the horizon?

 fishing structure with sleeping shack in middle and nets below

old fish trap

In Tawau we anchored off the Tawau Yacht Club and used their facilities- cold beers in an a/c bar and pretty good Chinese food on the covered deck. The walk to town was only10 min.  There are open storm drains adjoining the sidewalk and we saw some rats and a large monitor lizard crawling around. They drain into the ocean. That night, Steve heard a noise, got up, and had a rat run past him and hide under the chart table. Presumably, the rat swam out to the boat and climbed on. We bought and set up 3 live rat traps the next morning. That afternoon, the rat had licked off the peanut butter trap bait, eaten up a pack of cheese balls, but had only taken one bite of Pat’s home-made rolls. Steve re-set the bait with peanut butter covered cheese balls. Overnight, there was a huge squall and the boat rolled and bounced around. In the morning, the traps were not touched and there was a line of rat droppings leading from the cockpit to the edge of the boat. We think he abandoned the boat. We have had no sign of him since.

Heading north, we anchored overnight at lovely Gaya Island near Semporna. Sea Gypsies paddled up, asking for food, shampoo and toothbrushes.

Sea Gypsies getting a handout from sv Merkava

Gaya Island - Anchorage is just inside the pass

 A day after we passed by Semporna, there was another kidnapping of a tourist and a receptionist from a Semporna resort built over a reef. A speedboat with hooded gunmen grabbed the two women, presumably to sell to a Philippine radical Muslim group in the Jolo Islands nearby that is known to ransom tourists. The area is highly patrolled by police and navy boats, and we felt safe travelling through, but there have been other kidnappings in the past, one last November and another back in 2000. The tourists are released after ransoms are paid. We are now out of the travel alert zones and we have also purchased boat insurance.

Tigabu Island- We traded a ball cap for a nautilus shell with a local here

 

  We have had nothing but positive experiences with the people in both Indonesia and Malaysia, but we have worried about boat theft when leaving the boat unattended. We look forward to more SE Asia trips on Silver Tern soon.

 

 

 

On the Way to Bitung, Suluwesi, Indonesia

February 2014

We planned to leave Sandakan early, as the trip to Tambisan Island on the NE corner of Borneo is a long one and the entry into the anchorage looked a bit complex. However, attempting to raise the anchor at 06:00 that morning, we found it completely fouled and were unable to get it off the bottom. This was the first time in a lot of years of cruising that our anchor was apparently irretrievable.  We went to the police station who reportedly had divers and would help free fouled anchors, but no divers were available. However, one of the maintenance men on a police boat came out and between him and Pat and myself, we managed to free the anchor, several hours after our planned departure time. 

Leaving the harbor at Sandakan we were approached by fishermen who sold us some huge prawns, dinner at least was now easy. As we sailed along, the wind increased and pretty soon we were making 8-10 knots and we realized that we could still get into the Tambisan Island anchorage at a reasonable hour. We had agreed to pick up some items from a cruising yacht that had gone aground on the reef just outside of Tambisan, and bring them down to Darwin, so we met with a lovely  Filipino / Malaysian couple who helped us pick up the items and the next morning fed us an incredible breakfast of fried prawns, rice and noodles (not your standard breakfast fare, but it was great). Our plan for the day was a short sail about 20 miles around the tip of Borneo to an anchorage that was closest to the route to the NE tip of the island of Sulawesi in Indonesia. We left in the early afternoon.

leaving Sandakan, Malaysia

Boat on reef in Tambisan

local prawn

Freighter going by

Gally after provisioning in Sandakan

We were going to leave early the next day as the one area with potential pirate activity had to be crossed that day and we wanted to be well away from the Philippine/Muslim islands by nightfall. Once again, our plans were foiled as an unseasonable wind angle left our planned anchorage untenable. So, with no other option, we headed towards potentially pirate-infested waters in the early afternoon instead of early morning. We had great winds and quickly crossed through the Philippine Island group and on towards Indonesia. After dinner, Pat went down for a nap and I started the first watch. Because of the many FADs (fish attracting devices) I kept our speed down to about 6.5 knots (more about the FADs later). About 9:30 I noticed two small strobe-like lights in the distance off our stern. Half an hour later they were close, Pat was up and we were nervous as the vessels with the lights had to be coming from the Philippine islands where piracy is a serious concern. As the lights closed I used a powerful LED spotlight and we saw two identical small fast boats, each with a single driver, dressed all in black. We sped up, but it was clear that these two boats were much faster. When they approached, they first demanded to come aboard, then asked for a tow. We refused both of these. They finally just asked for something to eat, but by then we were so nervous that we used the spotlight to ward them off and convince them to go away. Were they pirates? Certainly not professional ones, perhaps opportunistic ones. Our relief was palpable as they went back towards the Philippine island group.

The rest of the night was uneventful, but the next morning brought another issue to the forefront. We had been told that crossing the Celebes Sea to Manado directly was unadvisable due to the large number of FADs. But we were used to the flimsy bamboo structures common the Philippines so we thought it would be OK if we were careful. Here in Indonesia, the FADs are steel cylinders and range in size from 2 feet by 5 feet to 4 by 15 feet. They are anchored to the bottom in waters as deep as 15,000 feet. This seems like an amazing feat in itself. Their weights range from hundreds to thousands of pounds. Not something to run into in a thin-skinned aluminum boat.

Back to the next morning, just as the first of light came over the ocean I saw about 10 yards dead ahead a large FAD. I changed course and we uneventfully continued on our way. What would have happened if daybreak had been fifteen minutes later or I had been making a cup of coffee? We saw FADs all day long and learned that if we adjusted the radar carefully we could spot them when they got very close (they are cylindrical and lie in the swell so are difficult for the radar to discern). So, the next night we kept a very careful watch with the radar as well as just a lookout (Pat had insisted that we cross with a full moon and once again her instincts were well founded). At 2:20 am, just as I was starting to get some much-needed sleep, we encountered a huge squall, had to reef sails and found ourselves completely blind as the radar was unable to see through the rain. So, for several hours we sailed way too fast with almost no ability to see ahead, not good! By now we are not happy with our decision to sail directly to Manado, we are both exhausted, and the winds are heading us. So, we made a hard right turn for the northern shore of Sulawesei. 

passing by a FAD

FAD up close

The Celebes Sea is a deep purple shade of blue that is almost heartbreakingly beautiful. The color of the water is simply unbelievable. The tragedy is the huge amount of plastic trash in the middle of this piece of incredible ocean.

We spent one more tense night at sea. Approaching the coast after dawn the next morning, I saw a shape on the radar that was not visible to the naked eye, I realized it was a waterspout about 3 miles away. The waterspout dissipated into a white squall and finally into a normal black squall that we avoided. It was quite an entry into Indonesia.

We entered a poorly-charted harbor an hour later and then found, with the help of a local fisherman, an anchorage right in front of a fish market in a small port. We spent the next day catching up on sleep here in Kwandang Harbor.

We planned to spend the next week slowly harbor-hopping NE along the coast of Sulawesi, heading towards Manado and then around to Bitung on the NE corner of the island where we hope to spend a few days diving and resting up from our passage. 

We spent 3 nights in Tudi Bay, a small nook behind a reef that offers protection from the seas. Days were hot enough that we have been taking the dinghy up into the mangrove –lined rivers just to cool down. People here are very poor and shy but friendly. They comb the reef at low tide every day, hunting for small fishes and invertebrates.  When they approach Silver Tern I often think they must feel how we would feel if aliens landed a flying saucer in our backyard. We are truly from a different world if not universe.

Anchored behind reef

mangrove rest spot

We continued to harbor hop, stopping in Teluk Bolaang Uti, a well protected harbor with an active night fishing fleet. Several fishermen stopped to chat and our few words of Bahasa Indonesia paid off. One of the visitors took us to a local market so we could resupply with vegetables (and beer). 

Finally, we arrived in the famous diving island of Bunaken. We contacted a dive resort, Froggies, in Pantai Liang who said we could use their mooring. We carefully crossed the fringing reef at high tide, moored the boat, and visitied Froggies. The managers and staff were so welcoming and friendly that we stayed a week there, diving with them as well as dining there.

Diving Photos from Bunaken

tunicate or sea squirt

emperor angelfish

crinoid, type of echinoderm

sponge with damselfish inside

lionfish

nudibranch

Jan 2014 Return to Silver Tern, Kudat, Malaysia

Blog Update- February 6, 2014 

Silver Tern spent 8 months in the Penuwasa boatyard in Kudat. We returned home last May 2013 and spent the summer in Canada and Alaska, enjoying an unseasonably warm and dry summer on a final trip aboard our Krogan "White Raven" We sold Raven just before we arrived back in Kudat. Our plan now is to sail to East Indonesia and try some coral reef diving.

January 8- Had a great send off dinner with friends in San Francisco including homemade crème brulee for dessert before they dropped us at SFO for our midnight flight. We flew on Cathay Pacific to Hong Kong and on to Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia. We checked in 6 bags (4 free, 2 at $150 each) mostly of boat parts including a Jordan Series Drogue for use in storm conditions, 2 scuba tanks, and Pat’s new West Marine “go anywhere” beachchair .

January 10- Crossed the date line after a 15 hour flight. Luckily we had premium economy with roomier seating and we were able to sleep on board. We had an 8 hour layover in Hong Kong so we took the rail into central Hong Kong for lunch. On the way in we passed the Apple store in the Central Mall which was having a one day sale. There was a line-up 6 rows long of young people waiting to get in and shop.

We arrived in Kota Kinabalu after a 3 hour flight into the extreme humidity and got a cab to a small hotel downtown passing palm lined streets on the way. We barely fit into the hotel room with our 6 large bags and four heavy carry-ons. The next several days were spent shopping for things that are not available in Kudat (where Silver Tern is stored on the hard). We bought liquor, cheese, yeast, & Starbuck’s coffee to name a few and also purchased a scuba compressor. There are good restaurants in KK too that we enjoyed including Steve’s birthday dinner at the Magellan Sutera Resort.

Pat in hotel room with excess luggage

                                                    

We spent one day at the Indonesian consulate and picked up our visas, good for 3 months. We had to show them our CAIT (Indonesian cruising permit) and submit our passports and photos. The visa was ready in the afternoon.

January 14- We hired a 7 passenger van to carry us and our luggage and purchases on the 3½ hour trip down to Kudat. Arriving at the boatyard, we found the office closed, as it was Mohammed’s birthday, a national holiday. So we spent the night on the boat on the hard with no bathroom key. We were expecting Silver Tern to be covered in dirt, but the boatyard had washed her before we arrived and the decks were clean. The only problem was the muddy puddles around the boat as the ground in our section of the boatyard is just dirt (not concrete) and it is the rainy season here.  But the boat looked to be in good shape. Inside, she was clean with no musty smells- still looking new and shiny with the white fibreglass walls and varnished hardwood floors and dinette table.

Silver Tern in Penuwasa Shipyard

Saloon and Chart table

Galley facing stern

 After a couple of days of inspection and stowing we realized that we were going to be a couple of weeks longer than expected in the yard and marina getting Silver Tern ready for her next adventure. Not that much time in the big picture, but it has changed our schedule a bit. We started working on the boat right away, getting sails back up, attending to some rigging and engine work, and painting the bottom  (in between rain squalls) before we could launch. 

Silver Tern on Travelift

January 25- After 2 weeks, we had our “big splash” back into the water and moved across the inlet to the new Marina Jetty Kudat. She is now side tied to a dock in this small marina where we are busy fixing things and doing all of the outfitting and provisioning necessary to go on a 3-4 month trip into remote areas. We’re learning that it’s easy to spend a month getting the boat ready for sea after 8 months away.

The marina is quite pleasant with a large covered balcony that catches the breeze and lots of tables and chairs for cruisers to use. One of the boaters organized a potluck here. It was fun to meet new cruisers and even reconnect with some folks we had met in the Philippines.  The marina facilities include water on the dock, bathrooms with showers and an a/c internet room with book exchange. They plan to put in a washing machine and a security gate at the top of the dock. They also have an office and meeting rooms and there is talk of a restaurant starting up soon.

Silver Tern in Marina Jetty Kudat

February 2- Gong Xi Fa Cai, Happy Chinese New Year- The marina put on a celebratory lunch party today on the covered patio. The cruisers were the guests of honor but the whole Chinese community seemed to be here. They had a local dance show, a dragon parade, a grand lion dance as well as a lucky draw and good Chinese food. It was a marvelous event that went on all day. 

Cruisers and Marina Owner's Family

Cruisers and Marina owners with Dragon

Dragon Parade on dock

Lion Dance with drummers

Lion head- operators inside can move eyes and mouth

Two men inside jump from post to post

Up on shoulders of other man

 Local Malaysian Dance Group performing traditional dance

Cruisers join the dances for money dance

Chinese luncheon- KFC has the best chicken in town

Chinese temple in town celebrates Chinese New Year with extra incense and fireworks at night

Dragon on roof of Chinese temple

Kudat Chinese Temple

lighting incense inside temple

Dragon on post in temple atrium

February 6- We plan to finish up here next week and head to Sandakan, Malaysia, stopping at some tropical islands for diving before heading to Suluwesi, Indonesia. We will check in at Bitung and then cruise the Molucca islands heading south to the Kai and Tanimbar Islands. Due to our timing, we have decided to split the Indonesia trip into two parts. We will complete the first leg in Darwin. Then we will wait for the favorable SE winds in July to start the second leg, from Kupang, W Timor toward Bali and on up to Singapore. In Australia, we can then tour the Kimberley region that Steve is keen on seeing. 

Wishing everyone a happy, healthy and lucky New Year